Since you guys are on the clutch discussion, I have a 73 super stinger 400 reed valve It has a 100 comet from a john deere sled trying to figure out if its calibrated right. Rips out of the hole good just feels funny at higher speed. Just rebuilt sec. Clutch that was a little tore up. Any info on that? Also has twin 36 mm mikuni's
What do you mean, "feels funny at higher speed"
1969 Mark III 400 with Sachs 368/370 single and electric start.
1971 Mark III 400 with Hirth 399cc twin and electric start.
1971 Stinger II 400 with CCW 400cc twin and electric start.
So...I have my 69' Sachs 370 on my 69' MARK III sled and a spare 69' Sachs 370 I pulled off a 69' MARK II.
I removed the outside clutch assembly from both engines and swapped them so I could use the one with the good rollers (black rollers, no flat spots). I left the inside fixed sheave in place on each engine and did not swap that.
I found the clutch assembly with the black rollers slid easily onto the fixed sheave that is on my sled. However, when I tried to slide the assembly with white rollers onto the fixed sheave on my spare engine, it would not go!
It's like the splines on the fixed sheave and the outside clutch assembly in this combination do not match well.
So, I will admit, I beat it on there with a rubber mallet and it was TIGHT. This is on my spare engine. There is no way it would ever work like this.
Now, I've got the good assembly (black rollers) on my sled and that glides back and forth smoothly on the splines and the bad assembly with the flat spotted white rollers JAMMED onto my spare Sachs.
Question is, why did this swap only work properly for one of the combinations?
Yep, check the taper. If the sachs has the 25mm taper crank, a bushing is available to go from 30mm down to 25mm. Or, leave the fixed sheave in place and just install moveable sheave and cover off of a super stinger. The difference is the newer clutches has a snap ring after the bearing, the old "L" arm clutch did not. All of our singles have newer clutches on them. If you look in the parts books you will see a few different #'s for the fixed sheaves but, if i remember right other than the taper, the ccw's might of been different off set for clearence on the cyl head. not sure though, i'd have to check my stuff. I know we have a clearence issue on the 340ss motors cuz the cylinder head sticks out some. set alignment off set with straight edge at 3/8" and center to center at 10 1/2" or slightly less.
For a Sachs single and using a Super Stinger clutch, do you leave the torsion springs on the clutch arms or are they too strong for the engine to engage the clutch?
I know this is an old thread but I am going to ask anyway. I have a Sachs SA-297 that I want to set up to race. I want to use a Comet 102c but I am not knowledgable enough about clutches to know where to start to calibrate it. Does anybody have any suggestions? Thanks.