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Post by admin on Feb 19, 2012 6:07:37 GMT -5
Since you guys are on the clutch discussion, I have a 73 super stinger 400 reed valve It has a 100 comet from a john deere sled trying to figure out if its calibrated right. Rips out of the hole good just feels funny at higher speed. Just rebuilt sec. Clutch that was a little tore up. Any info on that? Also has twin 36 mm mikuni's palasty2, What do you mean, "feels funny at higher speed"
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Post by admin on Feb 19, 2012 19:59:08 GMT -5
Here's the clutch on my 70' Mark III Hirth 399 twin. This one has the large bolt head on the end as well as the smaller bolt inserted inside that. This is the other kind that mooreperformance posted about a few post back. I have not removed this clutch to check the condition of the rollers. It does work pretty good. Another obvious difference between this 1970 and my 1969 clutch is; This 1970 clutch has aluminum sheaves, whereas the 1969 I have are steel sheaves (and rust). Also note the 989910 OEM Trail-A-Sled belt!
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70txpmr
L1 Scorpion - The Great Snowmobile
Posts: 11
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Post by 70txpmr on Sept 17, 2012 12:07:50 GMT -5
I think the air wrench was too cold when I tried it the first time. This time it removed the clutch bolt, no problem. So here's a look at the rollers. Each roller has one "slight" flat spot on it. Are these flat spots enough to cause the creeping problem? I need new rollers for my clutch. Does anyone know a source for them?
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Post by admin on Jan 18, 2013 19:59:16 GMT -5
So...I have my 69' Sachs 370 on my 69' MARK III sled and a spare 69' Sachs 370 I pulled off a 69' MARK II. I removed the outside clutch assembly from both engines and swapped them so I could use the one with the good rollers (black rollers, no flat spots). I left the inside fixed sheave in place on each engine and did not swap that. I found the clutch assembly with the black rollers slid easily onto the fixed sheave that is on my sled. However, when I tried to slide the assembly with white rollers onto the fixed sheave on my spare engine, it would not go! It's like the splines on the fixed sheave and the outside clutch assembly in this combination do not match well. So, I will admit, I beat it on there with a rubber mallet and it was TIGHT. This is on my spare engine. There is no way it would ever work like this. Now, I've got the good assembly (black rollers) on my sled and that glides back and forth smoothly on the splines and the bad assembly with the flat spotted white rollers JAMMED onto my spare Sachs. Question is, why did this swap only work properly for one of the combinations?
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70txpmr
L1 Scorpion - The Great Snowmobile
Posts: 11
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Post by 70txpmr on Jan 28, 2013 21:57:18 GMT -5
Yep, check the taper. If the sachs has the 25mm taper crank, a bushing is available to go from 30mm down to 25mm. Or, leave the fixed sheave in place and just install moveable sheave and cover off of a super stinger. The difference is the newer clutches has a snap ring after the bearing, the old "L" arm clutch did not. All of our singles have newer clutches on them. If you look in the parts books you will see a few different #'s for the fixed sheaves but, if i remember right other than the taper, the ccw's might of been different off set for clearence on the cyl head. not sure though, i'd have to check my stuff. I know we have a clearence issue on the 340ss motors cuz the cylinder head sticks out some. set alignment off set with straight edge at 3/8" and center to center at 10 1/2" or slightly less. For a Sachs single and using a Super Stinger clutch, do you leave the torsion springs on the clutch arms or are they too strong for the engine to engage the clutch?
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Post by johnmark111 on Aug 3, 2015 16:44:19 GMT -5
Who made the clutch in the pictures on this thread? Drummond???
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Post by obj1 on Aug 3, 2015 22:46:39 GMT -5
Probably Dick Harrison and Glen Gutzman.
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Post by kube1 on Aug 4, 2015 15:25:58 GMT -5
I made a handful of those taper adapters. I would gladly trade one for a tillotson hd return spring.
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falcon63
L1 Scorpion - The Great Snowmobile
Posts: 2
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Post by falcon63 on Aug 9, 2018 20:53:50 GMT -5
I know this is an old thread but I am going to ask anyway. I have a Sachs SA-297 that I want to set up to race. I want to use a Comet 102c but I am not knowledgable enough about clutches to know where to start to calibrate it. Does anybody have any suggestions? Thanks.
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