No spark and flywheel won't come off

[gumby]

Hi guys, 

Trying to get my 78 Whip 440 running and don't have any spark.  I'm guessing it's the points but can't get the flywheel off.  I want to make sure I'm doing it right before I break my puller.   I took the recoil off and put the puller on the holes in the flywheel.  When I tried tightening, I actually started to bend a washer on one of the puller's bolts so I stopped.  I could've went further but wanted to make sure I was doing it right.

I've heard of tapping on the main puller bolt when it's tight but that scares me.  Any thoughts or tips/tricks?

Thanks guys!

[weverat]

Yes, they can be stubborn. You need a good heavy duty puller, and just the right length bolts. Make sure it is bolted on there nice and square, then use a good air impact wrench, it should pop off.

If not, be patient, your pulling on those 3 little 6mm bolts, and you can only thread them into the flywheel about 1/2".

When it does pop loose, you get to fight with the flywheel key, it needs to come out with the wheel. What I am saying is the automatic advance mechanism hangs up on the flywheel key preventing the wheel from coming off.

Upon assembly, the wheel goes on first, then slide in the key.

[gumby]

I'll try it tonight and let you know. Thanks!

[gumby]

Thanks for the advice. After a few bent 6mm bolts, and a stripped out puller bolt, I finally got the flywheel to pop. Once in there, I saw some surface rust on the magnets and the surface of the magneto magnet contact points. I took some 400 grit and sand them lightly, sprayed them down with brake cleaner, and blew them off real good. I took the sand paper and sanded the points good too. When putting it back together, i'm going off of the manual I found for a 76 and it says to put the keyway in FIRST and then the flywheel. After screwing around for an hour, I walked away. Thought I'd come on here and post my results and see in your post, you mentioned putting the flywheel on first and THEN the keyway. I wish I would've re-read this earlier!

I'll do that tomorrow and post the results. Are the torque values going to be the same for the 76 vs. the 78?

Thanks!

[weverat]

Torque values are the same.

When sanding points I start with 400 grit, and finish with 800 or 1000. Then wet the corner of a clean white business card with brake cleaner, snap the points shut onto that a few times.

Usually it does not take much, but I have come across truly rusty points.

The fun part is setting the point gap through the little windows in the flywheel.

Mount the flywheel and key on there lightly until you are sure it has spark, then give the big nut just a little burp with the air impact,do not rattle it down super tight with the impact, just a little.

[gumby]

I never took the plate off the motor so will I have to adjust the gap? I'll check it after I mount the flywheel. I'm hoping to have it running tonight! We are doing a vintage run in 2 weeks.

[weverat]

If it is an old motor, the fiber that rubs against the cam will wear down, causing the point gap to go away. I think the correct gap is .014 to .016.


More gap advances the timing, as the point gap wears down the timing retards. Which is a good thing because I like to run the timing on the low side of spec.

These motors do not like advanced timing, if your plate has not been moved you should be ok.

[gumby]

Got it all buttoned back up last night, wrapped the rope around the clutch (recoil is broke) and gave it a tug. It fired right up!

Thank you so much for your help!