how do you make studs work in a steel tunnel?

[pararailer]

they can tear it up!

[ddub]

Some people pay big money to have custom torn metal!

[obj1]

Pararailer,
Don't tell anyone, but I've been told that lowering the front drive shaft, will give you enough clearance. Yep, chain case on left side and bearing mount on right side goes down. With skills like you have, nobody will ever see it! You start doing this, and scorp11 will offer a pararailer shaft lowering kit. Part number obj1.

[scorpionlilwhip]

we had a 75 jag we parted out and on the underside of the tunnel were two sliders mounted.

mount something under there, but they would have to be thick enough to prevent the studs from hitting the tunnel, and you have to make sure the studs do not impact the sliders

[obj1]

The problem with the steel-bodied scorpions is not under the tunnel but up front where the track goes around the drive shaft.

[stinger440]

I've oval raced a 71 stinger II and a 73 superstinger and never had a stud hit the tunnel. I run 3/8" above the track lug. Maybe I just got lucky?

[pararailer]

I have a studded track that came in a 72 I tore down several years ago.
Its was ice raced here in MN with a 292jlo. ( there are pics on here. 72 racer) I had ideas of putting it back in a race someday.
The guy that built it, rivited black hyfax slides under the tunnel but there are still some scratches under there.

It has Bogeys so maybe the track needs to be really tight. The only scorpion's Ive seen ice racing had bogeys.

I gotta tell you guys, I have taken my un-studded 71 super stinger out on the race track after the race was over and it doesnt even hardly turn! Cant even do anything with out carbide and studs!

What about with a pararail? I have never seen studs and a pararail.

Obj1, I have thaught about lowering the driveshaft and chain case. Totaly do-able.
If that was done with a pararail, the sled would sit up so high it would need longer spindles!

Also, It seems to be hard to find short studs from DennisKirk that would be best with a Scorp track.

It would be cool to put my super sharp carbide bars up front with a studded track and just go out on a frozen glare Ice lake some day to see how it goes! I dont think the sled would even need much for a motor and it would be a blast to drive!

HOOK UP!

[weverat]

i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n604/weverat/bth_BlackScorpRacer016.jpg

[weverat]

I have lowered the drive shaft on two of my ice drag sleds to accommodate 1" studs. I left the chain case where it is, cut a new hole in it, and had to cut out the bottom of the chassis - letting the sprocket hang out the bottom. The first time it took awhile, and required some head scratching. The 2nd time it was actually pretty easy. Oh ya, at the same time I cut and bent the front part of the tunnel towards the front of sled, again making room for studs. Yes, you guessed it, the gas tank no longer fits right, and the gas cap sticks up out of the hood.

[pararailer]

so you cut the bottom of the chain case off so it has a longer chain?
What? I 'm not following.
You must need to do alot to use 1" studs. Cool!
What sled is this? Please give more details.

[weverat]

1972 stinger II, converted to para rail, works good on ice or grass, I also did a 71 wedge chassis, and converted the wedge to a bubble nose. Is all I did was trim the wings off the front of the belly pan, and added the bubble nose bumper.

You do have to butcher up the chain case to make it work, I mean you have to be totally committed to making it a racer. Cut, weld, grind, and have no mercy for the original sled.