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Post by weverat on Oct 15, 2015 17:21:40 GMT -5
I am thinking about adding a center drive wheel, as the drivers slip, even with a tight track. I hate to drill a hole for the roll pin anywhere near the center of the shaft, I am thinking that would cause it to break. This is a 80 Sting with Para Slide, rubber track.
What can we do to make the drivers not slip?
What about those anti ratchet wheels that drive on the cogs and the windows ? I bet they would be power robbers?
Is there a fix, or do I need to fit up a Para Rail suspension and track.
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Post by tritowns on Oct 15, 2015 18:22:25 GMT -5
I don't think they'd rob as much power as you think... we had a 340 polaris as kids and that's how it's track was driven... it was more than a little quick. is your 83 sting shaft 1" or bigger?
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Post by weverat on Oct 15, 2015 19:55:43 GMT -5
It is a 1" round shaft
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Post by tritowns on Oct 15, 2015 19:59:33 GMT -5
K... I pulled... or should say started to pull out a shaft on a TK and it's bigger than 1"... luckily, I have many shafts to choose from so I found one that the drives weren't terrible and used it with new bearing.... SA205-16 I think was what was on them, local welding shop had NPN bearings that crossed.
If you find some cogs that work let me know what they are and I'll look for some here too...
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Post by stinger440 on Oct 16, 2015 11:38:38 GMT -5
How about instead of a roll pin you red Loctite the drive cog to the shaft and add a couple set screws. That way you don't drill all the way through the shaft?
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Post by weverat on Oct 16, 2015 17:36:30 GMT -5
I was thinking about set screws. I am pretty sure an extra drive wheel in the center will solve the problem, but if I drill through it will break.
I wonder how other Sting owners have solved the ratcheting ?
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Post by scorp11 on Oct 17, 2015 0:57:09 GMT -5
If you are adding a center drive sprocket I assume this is a replacement track. Just make sure the lugs clear the shock. It will run pretty close. Only guy I know who had ratcheting issues had it with non original tracks drag racing on ice with picks. He added a third drive sprocket. Might have used a drive shaft and track out of an arctic cat if I remember right. I have never ratcheted any of the 79 stings we run with stock tracks but then they only see snow, not grass or ice picks.
Not sure why putting a hole just like are in the drive shaft for the other two sprockets would make it too weak. The one most prone to breaking should be one of the end ones I should think. It is driven on only one side after all.
You could get a driveshaft and chaincase out of a 75-76 whip if really worried. They are 1 1/8 inch od. All newer ones are 1 inch. You would need a bigger hole in the sprockets for the driveshaft obviously. Chaincase is needed too as the bearing is bigger. 1 inch shaft will be an ra100 and I think 1 1/8 is a ra102 if memory is correct.
If you have a 79 and up tk with bigger than 1" drive shaft it has been replaced or swapped out. They came with a 1 inch shaft
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Post by scorp11 on Oct 17, 2015 1:00:40 GMT -5
And. Putting a pararail in a 79/80 sting would be a bit tough I think. They are shorter in the back than a whip. Not sure there would be room to mount the rear mount in the stock tunnel.
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Post by tritowns on Oct 17, 2015 10:57:45 GMT -5
My brothers '80 whip has a Para slid 3 under it... it's fine in snow but ratchets on hard pack.... we'll see how the next one works...
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Post by pararailer on Oct 19, 2015 22:15:24 GMT -5
I got a 77 whip from obj1 that someone put a pararail and 15 " track in. Swapped out the drivers to the old style. 80 sting would be the wider tunnel.
Sucks to hear that the pararail III "ratchets" I guess I've never really heard of anyone putting any real power to a sting in a race situation with some serious "hook up"
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Post by pararailer on Oct 19, 2015 22:18:01 GMT -5
I assume this is a clipped rubber track and not the cleated one.
Did they use a cleated track with a paraslide III?
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Post by tritowns on Oct 19, 2015 22:37:45 GMT -5
I'm using 3/4 cleat ed track with a Para slide 3.... it's what was on the chassis when I got it... don't know if that's how it came stock
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Post by scorp11 on Oct 20, 2015 0:48:32 GMT -5
For clarity
The paraslide 2 came out in 1979. It was the only suspension in the 1979 stings an option available in the TKs. A paraslide 1 was available in the whips and I am pretty sure in the tks. Would have to verify that. A whip could be had with ps 2 as well, but very seldom do you see it in them.
There was no paraslide 3 in any sleds except the 1980-81 stings.
the 1979-81 stings used the same track but there were many differences between the ps 2 and ps 3 rear skids
1979-81 TK had a slightly longer version of the paraslide 2 that was in the 1979 stings. There were some differences between them though, mostly due to the cleated track vs poly track.
1979-81 TK all came with a 16 inch 2/3 cleated track when equipped with a paraslide 2. The rear skid didn't change in any year other than they types of fasteners used when Arctic Cat took over.
The paraslide 1 is a completely different skid and has nothing in common with the paraslide 2 other than it uses the same slides as the paraslide 2 in the tk. It is more similar to a pararail than a ps 2 or 3 skid
I know these skids well, if you have any questions on the differences just ask. Be happy to share what I know. I made my own paraslide 3 rear skid for my custom whip. So had to sort out all the differences to make a skid that worked with a rubber track instead of a cleated one.
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Post by tritowns on Oct 20, 2015 8:08:47 GMT -5
Ok... is there a main distinguising feature that let's you know if you have a Para slide 2 or 3?.... never mind I think that's been answered in another thread
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Post by weverat on Oct 20, 2015 18:02:40 GMT -5
  Ok, here is the sled and suspension, 1980 Sting with Para slide II ? It is and never will be a racer, just a trail sled, no studs. Click on the pics to make them big. The way I post pic's it only allows two per post. Pay no attention to the Rupp thing in the window, I hate those sleds worse than John Deeres! |
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Post by weverat on Oct 20, 2015 18:06:39 GMT -5
  I believe the track is original equipment, it is a quimpex 3.29 35 lugs 15 1/4 wide In the second pic, notice how narrow the 2nd lug from the outside is. This is the lug that is chewing up the drivers. |
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Post by weverat on Oct 20, 2015 18:18:12 GMT -5
  I have two 1980 Stings, they both did the same thing to the drive wheels, chewed up the inside cogs on the wheels. I believe the problem is the track, as the very outside lugs are wider than the inside lugs. I think all stings have this problem, when Cat built them they did not give a shit. Somebody had a bunch of these tracks, and they used them up on the Stings. Should I just add a third driver to the center and call it macaroni? |
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Post by tritowns on Oct 20, 2015 18:53:21 GMT -5
Holy crap.... I'd be adding a 3rd driver
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Post by weverat on Oct 20, 2015 19:44:44 GMT -5
Thanks Tritown, that,s what I wanted to here.
Now i just need to find one more. I have two nos cracked up white ones, and two newer style black ones. Just need one more, and I don't even care what color they are.
Trail sleds frustrate the hell out me, if it was a racer, I would take time to update or whatever it takes to make it work forever.
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Post by scorp11 on Oct 21, 2015 0:00:26 GMT -5
View AttachmentView AttachmentI believe the track is original equipment, it is a quimpex 3.29 35 lugs 15 1/4 wide In the second pic, notice how narrow the 2nd lug from the outside is. This is the lug that is chewing up the drivers. That is a replacement track. Looks like a kimpex track and yes I have heard they like to ratchet. No the sprockets don't normally do that unless a guide gets bent or messed up. |
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