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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 22, 2016 18:07:58 GMT -5
From a 6 & 2 to a 1 & 1 1/2, great job. Those darn cranks are tricky. Sometimes you give them a squeeze, pinch, or twist and they move in the wrong spot, causing my head to itch. Maybe that's why I have a Charlie Brown head with only three hairs left.
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Post by weverat on Jun 25, 2016 13:08:49 GMT -5
"Life's like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna git."
Look at this nasty bite mark I found, right under the mag side seal! Someone was a bad boy. No box 'o chocolates for him! I was able to clean it up good enough to put back into service. I'm glad that I decided to check things out. I also found one of the centre seal springs had come off...I reinstalled it for now. The seal itself is not cracked or brittle and is... somewhat snug...ish? I'll ask our crankshaft guy for his opinion. He won't recommend replacement for nothing. Also the pto bearing is a little rough...we'll see.
I also found the cylinders have .005" wear and can see they are out of round...needs a rebore with oversize pistons.
Rene
View AttachmentView Attachment Thinking about the gouged up crank, right wear the seal runs! Did you polish it up with sand paper? It looks a lot better, but I was thinking about possibly finding a wider seal. It would hang out of the case a bit, but with a double lip, it would run in a different spot.
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 25, 2016 15:02:44 GMT -5
Thanks for thinking of my situation weverat.
I first took down the "teeth" high marks with the fine side of a finger nail emery board. I then sanded it evenly all the way around 400 wet/dry. There is a pitted groove half way around from rust forming under the seal lip from sitting a long time. There are also a few other gouges from some type of tool (screwdriver?). I will position the seal as far in as it can go and avoid most marks. The most important part is that there will be no more sharp high marks to gouge the new seal along with a straightened shaft...should be okay... I hope?
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 26, 2016 8:11:52 GMT -5
weverat wrote: "Thinking about the gouged up crank, right wear the seal runs! Did you polish it up with sand paper? It looks a lot better, but I was thinking about possibly finding a wider seal. It would hang out of the case a bit, but with a double lip, it would run in a different spot."
What do you think of this gouge repair...filled it up with 50/50 lead tin solder. Used my oxy/acet torch with a light flame pointing away from the bearing as I didn't want to get the bearing roller cage hot. I thought it was worth a shot...turned out well, I think. What are your opinions?
Rene
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Post by weverat on Jun 26, 2016 8:24:10 GMT -5
Good idea, looks great.
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 27, 2016 21:58:36 GMT -5
While I'm waiting for my cylinders to come back from the machine shop, I've decided to disassemble the rest of the sled to take inventory of what it needs.
Two things I need are new sliders and track drivers.
Would anyone know of quality drivers made of better material than this brittle white plastic?
It's for the Sting Paraslide III with the 15" all rubber track.
Thanks guys, Rene
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Post by kube1 on Jun 28, 2016 0:28:26 GMT -5
Get some high quality gear clamps and use them on those drivers. They'll last a long long time yet.
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Post by weverat on Jun 28, 2016 7:58:51 GMT -5
The 3.29 drivers to fit a 1" diameter shaft are obsolete. Yours look really good, I would add clamps and use them. Actually I have 2 1980 Stings with the rubber tracks, and the drivers ratchet (slip) under acceleration. It chews up the drivers. I was thinking about converting to a arctic cat hex shaft with 3 drive wheels, but actually have not effort ed,or moved forward on this idea. My whips have para rail with 3.29 drivers,rubber tracks and they do not slip. The Sting does not use the same track as the Whips. Sting tracks are 116 arctic cat looking tracks, both mine are stamped (Quimpex) they appear to be OEM, but maybe they are replacements. Any how they slip on the drivers with the para slide suspension. This is what happens when arctic cat tries to build a scorpion! Here is a thread concerning Sting tracks and drivers. scorpionsleds.proboards.com/thread/1349/1980-sting-drive-wheels?page=1
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Post by weverat on Jun 28, 2016 8:26:31 GMT -5
Ok, upon review of this thread, I realize my Sting tracks must be replacements as they look different than yours. Click on the pics to enlarge
Yours look exactly like my stock Whip tracks, they probably will not slip.
But still, you are the man that can decipher a hex shaft triple drive wheel up grade kit for the mighty Stings!
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 28, 2016 14:58:07 GMT -5
Ok, upon review of this thread, I realize my Sting tracks must be replacements as they look different than yours. Click on the pics to enlarge Yours look exactly like my stock Whip tracks, they probably will not slip. But still, you are the man that can decipher a hex shaft triple drive wheel up grade kit for the mighty Stings! A triple drive would be required if I had slippage but neither drivers nor track indicate this, my track doesn't even have centre lugs! I'm going to have to put on my thinking cap!
Does cat make the same diameter 3.29 drivers with hex centres? Are they made of a better black plastic?...if so...my head is starting to itch!
Thanks weve, or is it rat? Rene
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Post by weverat on Jun 28, 2016 19:10:10 GMT -5
WeveRat, or Weve for short, just Rat is good too, in Florida they call me Swerve.
Yes, 3.29 hex shaft black plastic drivers are available. OBJ tells me he has used them on a round shaft with success.
Are you coming to Princeton?
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 28, 2016 22:23:49 GMT -5
WeveRat, or Weve for short, just Rat is good too, in Florida they call me Swerve. Yes, 3.29 hex shaft black plastic drivers are available. OBJ tells me he has used them on a round shaft with success. Are you coming to Princeton? Weve, both you and kube tell me to use clamps, so I'll use them for now until I can retrofit those black Cat ones.
If I go, do you think I could enter the Kitty Kat race? and at 210 pounds, do I stand a chance?
Actually, I'm going to a show/swap meet this weekend in Regina, Saskatchewan and will probably get enough parts from the three Canadian amigos.
My wife and I are going to Jackson Hole Wyoming just before the Princeton meet and I'm not sure if I'll have it in me to drive another seven hours each way to your event.
Are you going for the swap and or racing?
Rene
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Post by weverat on Jun 29, 2016 7:00:54 GMT -5
I love to buy at swap meets (hoarder). I really should be selling, but still have a little room for sleds, and the personal parts stash is way to handy.
There are about 60 sleds in my coral, and I have sold a few over the past couple years, but also have inadvertently acquired 5 or 6. So my peel down plan is failing.
Anyhow in my opinion Swap Meets favor the buyer. I guess Vintage Sleds is best for selling.
We go to Princeton for the race!
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 30, 2016 12:16:11 GMT -5
Tuned up the track clips before removing suspension.
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Post by 80sting440 on Jun 30, 2016 12:36:58 GMT -5
The suspension is really quite simplistic...no grease zerks, no bushings or bearings at pivot points and springs sliding on steel. I suppose one should take it apart for inspection and lubing every few hundred miles!
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Jul 3, 2016 9:50:09 GMT -5
Did a little tin bashing and added a 30" aluminium rod inside for added strength. It's not perfect, but good for a rider.
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Post by 80sting440 on Jul 8, 2016 14:00:53 GMT -5
Fixed up belly pan cracks and hole.
Rene
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Post by weverat on Jul 11, 2016 20:59:36 GMT -5
Rene, I think you are the only person working on a Scorp this month. It awfully quite on here.
I have not touched a sled for 3 or 4 weeks myself, been playing with motorcycles. I find the bikes much easier to tune. You can run them on a smooth road and select a gear to load the engine as needed.
With a sled you have that dam clutch moving all the time, and the track is spinning out on the snow. Often it is hard to put a load on the engine.
The only good true test you can get with a sled is grass dragging next to OBJ, and then its to late to make adjustments!
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Post by 75whip on Jul 12, 2016 7:48:05 GMT -5
Same here, have not got the sachs back from the machine shop yet, so the 70 stinger just sits there, i was going to work on clutching this weekend, by running my 75 and 72 out on the hay feild this weekend, and with the 6 inches of rain last night that may not happen since i would be water skipping out there. Hard to figure out clutching with that. Lol i may just have to cross my fingers that in close with that.
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Post by 80sting440 on Jul 12, 2016 8:18:54 GMT -5
Weve, my bike doesn't require any work seeing that it was new last August, except the occasional chain clean and lube!
Got my jugs back from the machine shop yesterday and they are perfect...now starts my favourite part of this project...
I do most of my sled work in the summer as I don't have an insulated and heated garage. I will work down to -25C (-13F)but I find that anything colder than this is not fun. On the flip side, I hate the heat and humidity!
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