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Post by oldscorpman on Oct 3, 2016 20:44:47 GMT -5
oldscorpman said "always start painting from the intake side foreword to the exhaust side and start from the top and go down."
Thanks Rick, your tips are very helpful.
Nice job on the Caddy!
Do you/did you do all of the mechanical/bodywork yourself?
...good looks and talented, how do you keep the women away?... beat them off with your trophy?
Rene
i will have worked at a cadillac car dealership for 40 years this november as a gold level master tech. i did everything to the car except chrome the bumpers($3800.00 for all 11 bumper pieces) and the convertable top. i have restored 4 cadillac convertables, snowmobiles are much cheaper,more fun and quicker to do. rick
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Post by 80sting440 on Oct 4, 2016 10:43:41 GMT -5
oldscorpman said "i will have worked at a cadillac car dealership for 40 years this november as a gold level master tech. i did everything to the car except chrome the bumpers($3800.00 for all 11 bumper pieces) and the convertable top. i have restored 4 cadillac convertables, snowmobiles are much cheaper,more fun and quicker to do.
rick"
And I bet they're cheaper on chrome.
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Post by 80sting440 on Dec 5, 2016 18:39:04 GMT -5
Well, we got just enough snow to go and try out the MX Beast !
I had it out and ran it for ~ 65 klm (40 miles).
It went great with no issues.
The new drive sprockets and nitrogen shock worked out well...I can't really compare it to the old hydraulic one as I never rode with it. All I know is that it rides smoothly as is.
The windshield does a good job and the opening behind the cowl keeps the engine area cool and the rider warm...win, win! I'll be ordering a new shield as this one looks yellow compared to the new hood colour.
I ran the carb two jet sizes richer than recommended for the temp of 0c (32f), one size up for running without the air box and another one for break in .
I ran 20:1 conventional oil for initial break in.
I'm now switching over to 40:1 synthetic.
Rene
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Post by oldscorpman on Dec 6, 2016 21:58:08 GMT -5
Well, we got just enough snow to go and try out the MX Beast !
I had it out and ran it for ~ 65 klm (40 miles).
It went great with no issues.
The new drive sprockets and nitrogen shock worked out well...I can't really compare it to the old hydraulic one as I never rode with it. All I know is that it rides smoothly as is.
The windshield does a good job and the opening behind the cowl keeps the engine area cool and the rider warm...win, win! I'll be ordering a new shield as this one looks yellow compared to the new hood colour.
I ran the carb two jet sizes richer than recommended for the temp of 0c (32f), one size up for running without the air box and another one for break in .
I ran 20:1 conventional oil for initial break in.
I'm now switching over to 40:1 synthetic.
Rene View AttachmentView Attachment
nothing like that first ride after putting them together. sled looks great rene rick
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Post by 80sting440 on Dec 7, 2016 7:03:23 GMT -5
You're right Rick.
Thanks, Rene
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kerry
L2 Scorpion - Above All
Posts: 69
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Post by kerry on Dec 7, 2016 23:45:41 GMT -5
Your machine looks great rene.I like your air intake idea. Kerry
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Post by 80sting440 on Dec 8, 2016 12:07:18 GMT -5
Thanks Kerry
I had a friend come over to check out my machine's progress. He'll only restore his projects back to 100% stock or maybe a little bit shinier. He looked mine over and had only one comment..."Your fan intake sure looks INDUSTRIAL!"
I call mine a "mild custom resto". I know it's not for everyone, but an old snowmobile is a way for me to do my own thing. There are plenty of beautifully restored examples out there but only one like mine! At the same time I like to improve on known flaws or on ways to improve reliability, eg. newer cdi box, throttle position switch bypass, nitrogen shock, improved under hood air flow, carb intake plumbing removal, air filter, exhaust wrap, free flowing and lightweight fan induction, free flowing mag side head fins, intake manifold isolator removal, cooler plugs, etc... .
Rene
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Post by weverat on Dec 8, 2016 16:22:19 GMT -5
so, you removed the intake manifold isolator? Was the idea to eliminate a possible air leak?, or what was the reason for this modification?
Thanks Rene, you do a great job with your sleds, and thank you for posting and sharing your ideas.
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Post by 80sting440 on Dec 8, 2016 17:56:09 GMT -5
so, you removed the intake manifold isolator? Was the idea to eliminate a possible air leak?, or what was the reason for this modification? Thanks Rene, you do a great job with your sleds, and thank you for posting and sharing your ideas. Thanks weve.
I first removed them because they had become hard and brittle. I didn't want them to become leakers and cause a piston melt down after my rebuild. Like most things on this machine, I question the why and what for of everything I touch. I figured that the isolators were originally supple enough to prevent heat transfer but had become hard and had lost this ability.
Seeing that the '80/'81 use a Mikuni carb with a rubber boot between it and manifold along with a separate fuel pump...no need for those pesky isolators. My Winderosa gasket set came with 4 intake gaskets, so I put 2 on each side with gasket goo in between to allow for some wiggle room in case the jugs and manifold were not 100%% squared up.
The other day on my long run (@32f), I checked out the carb and it was very cool compared to the manifold.
I'm self taught in mechanics and don't always get it right.
I've found that if I do things my way and fail...I don't get too angry at my teacher!
My ideas may be far fetched at times, but they're all I've had until I joined this forum.
It's been a pleasure bouncing ideas off you guys and also receiving your tips and insights.
ttyl Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Dec 13, 2016 17:31:49 GMT -5
Well, today I finished the break in with another ~70 klm (43 miles). I finally was able to see how much power this Cuyuna with a Mikuni Powerjet 36mm carb makes...wow, I'm quite impressed. I had the carb dialed in for the temps and was surprised at the higher r.p.m. power. The power is the opposite of my Ski doo 503.
Cuyuna...no bottom end torque. Rotax...tons of bottom end torque. Cuyuna...lots of higher r.p.m power. Rotax...higher r.p.m. power falls flat.
That extra porting along with the Sting pipe and Powerjet carb without all of that additional intake plumbing all add up to a nice running engine!
Today was another good run if you don't count getting stuck in a waist high drift and cattail reeds!...At least, now I don't need to go get a heart stress test. If that didn't give me a heart attack, I'm probably good for another 5 years!.
Rene
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kerry
L2 Scorpion - Above All
Posts: 69
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Post by kerry on Dec 13, 2016 20:36:36 GMT -5
Rene I like your ideas.Sometimes given the lack in availability of parts you have to improvise.Sometimes it works sometimes it don't.I was wondering if anyone ever thought about running an electric fan instead of the belt.That would be a little free hp in my mind. I have a rubber boot/ 36 mm mikuni set up to try on one of my motors.The only problem I see is the boot that I have doesn't have enough support to keep it flush when tightening it down.it wants to cup out against the intake port.It needs a metal exterior squish flange or something like that,that will spread the load of tightening flat across the intake port.Probably have to be at an 1/8" thick to stay flat. Kerry
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Post by 80sting440 on Dec 13, 2016 21:33:56 GMT -5
Hi Kerry.
As far as an electric fan...go for it and keep us informed! If you want to use my hair drier...I don't need one any more!
The Mikuni boot wants to cup...check under the rubber face, mine has an aluminum plate buried in it. It still wants to cup so I install as big of a washer under the nut and only tighten until it starts to cup, then back off until flat. Do this with Loctite on the studs and Motoseal gasket maker between manifold and boot. Works like a charm.
Rene
PS. k.i.s.s. is probably best with the fan...just my nickel's worth.
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Post by weverat on Dec 14, 2016 14:43:59 GMT -5
I use the Mikuni brand intake boots, rather than the standard parts unlimited brand. They are stiffer,and maybe steel rather than aluminum under the rubber coating.
Definitely glue the thing on with your favorite sealer. Then when it dries, I brush a coat of gasket sealer all the around the joint. I too am concerned about that dam thing leaking.
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Post by obj1 on Dec 14, 2016 22:11:08 GMT -5
As far as a electric fan instead of the belt. Well, here is a secret but dont tell weverat. If we get to the final and the other sleds look fast, i grab the side cutters and make the belt go away. Its worth another 1000 rpm. And will flip the belt upside down at 500 ft.!
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Post by weverat on Dec 14, 2016 22:46:05 GMT -5
Yes, I have seen the Mercury guy's run fan motors 500 feet with out the belt.
OBJ, guys like us could never put that kind of abuse to one of our beloved Cuyunas?
I have considered cutting off a few blades though!
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kerry
L2 Scorpion - Above All
Posts: 69
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Post by kerry on Dec 15, 2016 22:52:14 GMT -5
I may try something for the hell of it.I came across some fans at princess auto a while back but didnt really think of an application till recently.I dont even know if they are 12v.Next time down I'm gonna check and see. I think the boot I have doesnt have any metal in it at all so that might be the problem.I couldnt put a washer thats larger than the nuts as they already rub the edge of the boot.Thankfully I still have a walbro which will do in the short term till I source out a better boot or make a plate. Kerry
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