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Post by weverat on Jan 2, 2018 23:08:09 GMT -5
Looks like a Whip aluminum chassis, with para-rail. Whips did not come out until 75?
Also, I do not recognize that engine.
Was Scorpion still racing in 73? I guess I thought there racing kind of fizzled after 72
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Post by weverat on Jan 2, 2018 0:39:02 GMT -5
Wow, is it an oil pump?
I have never seen one like this, but that thing on the bottom might even be an accelerator pump.
I would hang it on the wall as shop art, and go get a normal Mikuni from the salvage yard, or better yet a new one from Dennis Kirk
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Post by weverat on Dec 31, 2017 22:44:50 GMT -5
Talked to Pararailer last spring, he is into muscle cars and fishing.
Did some racing with Bubba last summer, he is still into it, mostly posts on facebook now days.
I guess I do not know ddub, but obj does. I think he hangs out on Vintage sleds?
You ben kind of quiet yourself all summer, good to have ya shootin the shit again!
My self, I have been off work for a week, and go back Jan 10th. Have been spending most my time studying Cuyuna crankshafts and cylinders, especially the 4 bolt stuff. I found out the 400 cylinders are much nicer than the 440's
Wishing I would have taken a harder look at the 4 bolt 400's 20 years ago.
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Post by weverat on Dec 31, 2017 20:02:08 GMT -5
Those are good numbers
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Post by weverat on Dec 31, 2017 13:40:48 GMT -5
Ok,I only take them dam things in, or out about every three years so I am not an expert. But I put the last one in just exactly as you described, and in that same order.
I had the sled sitting in it's normal position, with a chain hoist on the back so I could raise it up and down some.
It is a bit of a struggle finagling the suspension into the track, and I found it helped to remove at least one rear idler bogie wheel, and of course the track adjusters as loose as they go.
Then it is the usual struggle getting the bolts started. Sometimes I countersink the shafts a bit, seems to help start the bolts.
Have you got the mounting dimensions?
You have any UFO,s out there?
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Post by weverat on Dec 28, 2017 21:41:26 GMT -5
Still side tracked, got to messing around with a JLO 400 4 bolt out of a 73 Super Stinger TK. It had the usual burnt piston on the clutch side. I melted the aluminum out with muratic acid, and it cleaned up nice, except the darn thing was also rusty, so it needs a new bore.
I did find another cylinder, but am hurting for a standard size SPI pee stone.
Again while digging for spares, I come across a pair of really nice freshly bored 440 6 bolt cylinders with pistons to fit. So I guess I am building another motor, out of parts.
We did finally get an inch or two last week, and another 1 1/2 today. The neighbors went crazy with big snow blowers, and 4 wheelers with plows. When they were all done, I ran up and down my driveway with a push broom, took about 10 minutes. I do not know what is wrong with those guy's, well actually, I do, but being careful not to be political.
So I was able to test the TX donor sled, 9 degrees, it needed stabil sprayed into the carbs in order to start, and then needed a few more squirts to keep it running for a minute. I suppose it needs pistons and rings. once it is warmed up, it starts easy, kind of like all my half worn out vintage sleds.
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Post by weverat on Dec 25, 2017 9:42:04 GMT -5
Ok, got side tracked, and slid the ol Super out of the way for now. I was digging around through one of my parts stash sheds, kind of reorganizing, and wound up dragging home a pile of Sachs singles. This old 290ss really caught my eye, and I just had to take it apart to "check it's condition"? Ya, that is code for "build race engine" The crank was good, gave it the chisel in one spot, and it came within .001 on both sides. Fukin a skippy, lets grind her out, and build a pipe! This engine is not worthy of a Super Stinger, but good enough for an old Lynx, or Puma.
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Post by weverat on Dec 23, 2017 14:55:38 GMT -5
Looks great in white with the vintage decal!
I see a Walbro WF in the box below the headlight, you ever get those to work?
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Post by weverat on Dec 20, 2017 13:57:02 GMT -5
Track, drivers, and suspension go in today. The old Super had 20/40 sprockets. I was going to use them, but the old bottom sprockets do not fit as the splines are cut at a V shape Later Scorpion used the same size and number of splines but they were cut more square. You can file the old sprockets to fit if so inclined. Also had to weld in the para-rail shock mount. Left click the big picture to make it normal Right click the small pic to make it normal. I can not figure out why some pics become uploaded as thumb nails, and the others way to big?
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Post by weverat on Dec 18, 2017 12:03:40 GMT -5
Here it is, bolts right onto the back of a para-rail, and it is light weight. Maybe if I were to lock the front swinging arm in position so it can not travel, then the track would hold it's adjustment. For drag racing, just a little travel is enough? Check out the UFO, What your seeing is the shadow, left click on the pic and you can see it. Seems like they show up when drinking Heinekin during the day, those cheap Bud Lights are for the neighbors.
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Post by weverat on Dec 18, 2017 11:46:52 GMT -5
I tried connecting the rear idler assembly from an old bogie wheel suspension to the Para-rail. It all looked good on paper etc., but upon assembly I found out as the suspension moved up and down, the track tension would change.
That H arm on the back seams to hold track tension at all angles?
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Post by weverat on Dec 18, 2017 7:02:34 GMT -5
Yes, some of these become damn near molecular bonded with rust. The shaft with the shock mount often is really stuck. I have cut the shaft in order to save the H arm weldment.
It helps to start with at least 2 complete suspensions.
The next one you find will come right apart with minimal effort.
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Post by weverat on Dec 17, 2017 22:18:52 GMT -5
No doubt, with the modern sleds it is painless, and you can enjoy the scenery.
Vintage is another game, you have to be focused, hanging on, and listening to your machine.
We do not have many modern sleds here in S.E. Mn. as we rarely get snow. It is normally mid to late Jan. before we have enough snow to ride on. February is good. We usually can mow lawn by the end of March.
North of the twin cities has a good 4 month season extending to the end of March.
When it starts to snow here, they start plowing 24/7 until all roads are perfectly cleaned up, and salted down. In Rochester they load it all up in trucks and haul it out of town. They even clean the shoulders, and drop that wing half way down the ditch. The locals all have snow blowers, and they polish up everything immediately, it is like they have a weird phobia with snow, oh ya, and then they bitch about it!, and cry about how winter sucks.
I love winter,
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Post by weverat on Dec 17, 2017 7:01:48 GMT -5
Nitroman, That front arm pivots, and the springs are not all that stiff, yours must be stuck.
No lock tite for me, I do the opposite and use grease or never seize.
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Post by weverat on Dec 16, 2017 19:22:58 GMT -5
Very nice ! All these projects take time.
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Post by weverat on Dec 16, 2017 8:55:05 GMT -5
Grill,s are marginal, one is missing chrome, so I painted it. The other is missing the cross bars, so I am looking for a chrome wire shopping cart. The drive shaft and drivers were very nice, as the donor sled only had 1400 miles on it. I like to slather the wheel with epoxy, and add a clamp. Would be nice to find better clamps. Thought about those galvanized clamps as used on a chain link fence, but that would be just to much bulky hardware down there. Some of my pics post full size, and others appear as a thumb nail? I love computers!
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Post by weverat on Dec 16, 2017 8:46:30 GMT -5
That was fun, but do not need to do it again for a while. Wound up with 14 pounds on the spring, I like 11, but will try it as is. I am using the later style chain case, and driven pulley. Installed a temporary chain case on the chassis just to hold it all together while sand blasting and painting. Turns out, I like the look, so I left it.
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Post by weverat on Dec 16, 2017 8:35:30 GMT -5
Progress report: Last Sunday's project. I put the coveralls on, knowing I would be going full Gomer on this piece of shit. Tool list: Blow torch, fluids, wire wheels, sandpaper, parts washer, hammers punches, grinders, files, good attitude, and a bigger hammer. Luckily, I had a few more pulleys and chain cases to choose from.
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Post by weverat on Dec 16, 2017 8:17:06 GMT -5
Dan, oldscorpman's tools are very handy!, I seem to never have enough patients to weld one up, but it is not hard to take apart if you have a helper in the shop. You can stand on the arm, or use a bar to compress the 2 springs, and at the same time use 2 flat bars to hold the springs up and free from the cross shaft and they come free. This now allows you to pull the shaft and lube it all up good, then it is the same bitch to put back on, just have a good partner and a selection of bars. Ok, I do not completely disassemble my para rails, only the shafts at the front and the back. I only replace the real bad bogies, and use a needle greaser on the rest of them. This is good enough for me, as us old guy,s are not going anywhere with these old sleds anyhow. Now, oldscorpman is a master of total concourse restoration, and is never afraid to go "Full Monte". Me?, I just want it to roll so I can go give it a damm good beating. A couple more things, that roll pin that holds the shock mount in place can be very stubborn, seams like I wind up drilling it out, and it is hard steel. Better to use the right size punch, heat,and fluid, tapping back and fourth, you know the drill. Often they are broke, or become broke, but they are available on e-bay etc. for about 20 bucks. Then I use a bolt rather then a roll pin. The other thing is these para rails come in all flavors, different lengths and widths to fit Scorpion tracks. 72,73,74,75 Stingers used 14 1/2" tracks. Stings, and Whips had 15 1/2" tracks. Make sure it will fit in the Rupp tunnel.
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Post by weverat on Dec 15, 2017 21:55:45 GMT -5
The best part is, you get to free up those 3 shafts on the back, 2 steel shafts in the weldment, and 1 aluminum passing through the rear idler wheels.
You have to be careful not to booger up the threads etc. I have my best luck with a little heat, and your favorite penetrating lube.
Then all that shit is usually bent out of alignment, so you have to kind of straighten and tune everything to fit descent again.
Upon assembly, I mix light grease with never seize, slather over all the shafts, and inside the pipes.
Oh ya, the pipes, they are a fricking mess too, I use a round wire brush of the correct size, and a cordless drill to clean the rust out of the pipes.
They are an all day affair. Take your time, stand it on it's side, and start spraying it with lube for a few days, maybe even add a little heat, and spray it some more.
Keep us posted!
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