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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 15, 2017 22:40:31 GMT -5
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 15, 2017 22:37:50 GMT -5
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 15, 2017 8:09:18 GMT -5
Rene, your going off the deep end ,you need to start another sled project, maybe go for those grease zerks. Better yet, find an old tunnel mount Stinger, junk out the old CCW and stick a 503 in there, add a bunch of studs, carbide runners, and go raise hell on the lake! oh ya, Dantheman, welcome to the site I'm afraid that I fell in a long time ago
I don't know about an old Stinger, but I am giving some thought of putting a Rotax 503 into my Sting.
Now that I have mine (503) pulling over more easily, I really like it. My crank guy had placed the centre bearings too tight against their side retainers, thus causing great friction within them...couldn't pull it over in the cold! While I had it apart I got a rebore with new pistons and it works great.
A reliable Rotax vs. a known self destructive Cuyuna...hmmm
You're giving me food for thought...
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 14, 2017 23:40:31 GMT -5
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 14, 2017 18:46:48 GMT -5
Sooo...what you're saying is, between all of that rock 'n roll and vintage sled, your hearing is shot?
I just got a set of custom made musician's ear plugs for riding. I had to take a decibel reading of my seating position on my loudest sled and they inserted a filter in my earplugs to bring the sound down to 83 Db...should of done this years ago. They told me that I'd be safe at this level for up to 10 consecutive hours. I told them that on a vintage sled, I'm lucky to ride for 1 hour!
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 14, 2017 13:15:02 GMT -5
You're welcome Dan.
It's good to know who we're talking to.
Knowing your skill level helps us help you.
I've now got this mental image of you being stranded out in the boonies, because of a burned piston, not sweating the "little stuff", just strumming that old guitar and singing a sad country music tune;
"My baby Sting has left me, stranded in the sticks, just 'cus I am, an ol' country hick."
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 14, 2017 9:38:47 GMT -5
Dan.
You were asking about the throttle cable adjustment.
On top of the carb where your cable assembly meets the carb, there's a nut. Loosen it counter clockwise. This will give you more cable slack if needed.
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 14, 2017 9:33:08 GMT -5
Another area of concern with the rear suspension is that it has no grease zerks. This may cause your back end to sag without springing back up. You have to remove it and disassemble every season. Clean up the pivot point cross shafts and slather on some lube. Do the same to the other pivot points and to the spring rubbing surfaces...are we having fun yet?...welcome to old sleds!!
I've added some zerks to my other vintage and may attempt to do the same on my Sting this summer...maybe...
"10 hours of work for every hour of riding"
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 14, 2017 9:07:55 GMT -5
Hello Dan!
Welcome aboard. Why don't you take a little bit of time to tell us about yourself, your interest in vintage sleds and why you chose this Sting? (this way we feel a connection with you and are more apt to want to help)
Your carb idle speed screw is on the left side in the middle. Use your fingers to turn it out (or in) until you reach desired rpm. The other adjustment screw is just to the left of it. It's the idle air mixture screw. The idle circuit has a set amount of fuel metered with a variable air screw. Have the engine warmed up and idling. Turn that screw clockwise slowly until the rpm just start to drop. Turn it back out slightly until it picks up speed again. Play with it until you're comfortable with that sweet spot...that setting will vary with outside air temperature...readjust when there's a fair bit of temperature change. Usually 1/8 turn either way will do.
scorpionsleds.proboards.com/thread/1666/sting-para-rail-iii-upgrade
I upgraded my suspension with a new spring/shock. It's a nos Comet unit that can be rebuilt. I got it from Don Soukup (Dr. Mario) 920-743-7660...he and his wife are great to deal with.
Let us know how things work out.
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 9, 2017 16:19:58 GMT -5
Hi weve.
I don't have the k2 arms with me...I got them shipped to my in-laws in the USA and will be picking them up latter this month.
The A1 have less weight, 48.5 gr, with it's weight more in the middle. The K2 weigh 54 gr and has the weight more at the tips.
I don't know about B1 arms.
The K profile will be more agressive in upshifts but the A will be better for back shifts...that's how I see it anyway?
Life for me on my snowmobiles is 99.9% regular riding with maybe one race against a buddy per year.
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 8, 2017 19:34:51 GMT -5
My $.02 I think you are going to want a little higher engagement then the silver spring will provide. In my experience with these, the cuyuna with scorpion secondary like a heavy tip weight Like the K weight. I have tried using modern Polaris 10 series weights, they take off great but seem flat on the top end. The base combo you ordered might be fine for what you want. You're right Stinger.
The initial engagement rpm is fairly low.
For any kind of racing or aggressive starts, it's probably too low.
I got a chance to try it today on snow and actually prefer it this way...maybe I'm just getting old!
I'm also liking my A1 48.5 gram weights.
Maybe I'll install my K2 set next year to check out the difference.
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 7, 2017 19:08:09 GMT -5
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 6, 2017 7:40:13 GMT -5
Thanks I know but we have a ultrasonic cleaner where I work I just want to get the valve out of the carb then im 👍 At my wife's work, they have an ultrasonic cleaner for glasses. Do you think they'd notice if I threw in a carb every now and then?...hmmm...
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 5, 2017 20:19:56 GMT -5
Hello stingguy.
Either a regular Mik or a Power Jet model will work just fine. Both obj1 and I like our Power Jets. He races his and I ditch/trail ride mine. Others like and trust the regular ones. Power Jet give you better gas mileage, while a regular one is simpler to understand and work with. Can't go wrong with either.
Both 36mm and 38mm work well on our 440s...mine is a 36. A smaller carb generally gives better startup and lower rpm torque, while bigger = more top end hp.
As far as cleaning yours...it'll need more than just some spray!
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 3, 2017 20:20:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the demo weve.
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Nov 1, 2017 7:56:11 GMT -5
Good to know, I was able to obtain a new sno stuff cdi box and put it in.......Now have spark again!! Good stuff, Cat.
Do you have a part number?
Where did you get it?
How much $$?
Thanks, Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Oct 29, 2017 19:26:07 GMT -5
I, along with some others on this site, use Winderosa gasket sets.
This "doubling up" of base gaskets is a quick way of raising all of your ports for more upper rpm power. This along with eliminating head gaskets or shaving down your heads, along with using gaskets, is a 2 stroke trick that is sometimes used on other engines. This also reduces usable trail power (lower and mid range torque). Most of the racers on this site seem to grind away at the ports to massage them as needed...you may not want all of your intake, transfer and exhaust ports raised .019"!!! Our engine barely has enough useable lower torque as is, so I leave mine stock and enjoy it for what it is. When Cuyuna bought out the JLO engine company, they went to town on the porting and increased the hp quite significantly...good enough for a daily rider as mine!
Unless you're seriously looking at racing this sled, my advice to you is to work at trying to keep this engine from melting yet another piston...that seems to be one of the challenges facing us with our beloved Cuyunas.
I wish you the best success, Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Oct 29, 2017 16:59:27 GMT -5
Hello sting guy! Welcome aboard.
I just went through a complete rebuild last summer. The guys here were full of good advice. You can follow my thread here. scorpionsleds.proboards.com/thread/1522/hello-winnipeg-manitoba
The sealant I use and trust is Moto Seal by Permatex. Honda Bond and the Yamaha's version of 2 stroke case sealant are also very good...pick any and they all work well if you follow instructions.
Enjoy the journey.
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Oct 23, 2017 10:00:32 GMT -5
HeyStinger.
That's great info.
How does it run compared to the original...same I would assume?
Rene
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Post by 80sting440 on Oct 22, 2017 20:12:29 GMT -5
I removed the heat shield on my 80 Sting pipe before using header wrap. The shield was only to protect the plastic intake tube, which I no longer use.
Rene
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